Extinction or evolution?

The Kenyalang Park mixed development is one of the oldest modern residential and commercial area in Kuching. The development consist of single storey and double storey low-cost houses with a centralized commercial hub, which comprise of shophouses, a market, a cinema/theatre and an office block. A new wet market was added to the area while a new block of shophouses was tucked in the back of the old shophouses. 

The name Kenyalang is taken from the local name for the Hornbill bird, which is also the official bird of the state of Sarawak. Sarawak is also known as "Bumi Kenyalang" or "Land of the Hornbills". Just like the bird, which has deep roots in the local Dayak culture, this area has also a deep relationship with Kuchingites and the history of the city.

This area is becoming a jewel to artists and photographers as this is the few places where traditional businesses still thrive. The juxtaposition of 60s modern architecture with a mix of traditional and modern businesses creates a unique backdrop which can be rarely seen anywhere else in Kuching. Walking through the street is almost like walking back in time to an era when Kuching was beginning to boom after achieving independence and joining Malaysia.

Concrete fins, exposed brick walls, and louvre windows - a tropical architect's wet dream. The design of the shophouses are unique and can only be found in Kenyalang. However, as with old buildings, fire due to old electrical wiring is a huge issue and these buildings have seen a fair of amount destruction due to this hazard. 

In an era of disposable consumption, where broken items are easier disposed of and replaced with a newer and cheaper model rather than being sent to repair, there is a dying breed of "artisans" who continue to make a living of repairing electronic items such as television sets. Their workshops are filled to the ceiling with electronic parts from various eras and because they have accumulated such a huge amount of components, sometimes they are forced to at the front steps of their shops.

A men's barber is quite a rare sight in a generation of hair salons and funky haircuts. Now, their only customers are those from the older generation and fathers who bring their young sons for cheap haircuts. Here, being a hair stylist is a much more glamorous profession than being a barber, which is the opposite of their western counterparts.

I definitely believe that this is the only few shops in Kuching that sells their goods in those large glass jars. These jars are filled with candies, snacks, dried fruits, and biscuits to name a few. It is definitely a must visit when you are in the area. 

Few of the remaining family owned sundry shops in the area.



A sewing kit shop - You don't get to see many of these either.



Pigeons love this place. (Who doesn't love free food?)



So do the local kids.



He probably got those threads from that lady selling them in the sewing kit shop.



Afternoon stroll.



Test drive (ride).



Rainbows waiting to fly.



Not everything is old and drab.

Although things are relatively slow and quiet on normal days, Kenyalang Park comes alive during the Chinese Lunar New Year period as it becomes a tourist hot spot for the new year shopping. 

Things are perhaps getting better for Kenyalang Park as it is going through an early stage of gentrification. Its central location in the city and comparatively cheap albeit old houses is seeing an influx of young families who would rather buy these old houses and modernize them than buying much more expensive newer houses which are further away from the city. 

As the gentrification process continues, it is important that some of the essential elements that shaped Kenyalang Park as it is being retained. They should be treated as cultural and architectural treasures which have been deeply woven into the fabric of Kuching. The last thing we want would be the demolition of the existing buildings in order to build safer but characterless and overwhelming shophouses.

Kenyalang Park has gone through many stages of evolution which has helped it survive through the volatile landscape of the commercial world. Although it has not come out of the fight unscathed, it has managed to avoid extinction due to the close knit community in that area, which continues to support the businesses there. I hope this support will continue as new residents move into the area for it would be a shame to lose some of these hidden gems, such as the shop that sells tidbits in the glass jars, to the jaws of modern consumerism. 

Photographs were taken over different days.

Camera: Olympus OMD E-M10

Lens: M.Zuiko Digital ED 14-42mm f3.5-5.6